New York Fashion Week was full of beautiful collections. But, it was a lot to keep up with. To make it easy on you, we hand-picked our favorite shows for you to check out.
Proenza Schouler celebrated 20 years on February 11th just before their appearance in New York Fashion Week. Prior to showcasing their more experimental pieces, they showcased a more elusive collection that demonstrated a kind of evolution that especially reflects the minimalist, monochromatic trends of a younger generation. Lazaro Hernandez and Jack McCollough, the brand designers, aimed to emulate the sophistication of Gen Z through the lens of younger women looking to wear functional, stylish, and trendy pieces. With less of a weight on the “showiness” of a collection, they branched out of their creative process to zero in on headshots of women in their life whom they were inspired by to create pragmatic and realistic pieces for those women.
On theme with the emphasis on animals and nature that have been seen since Paris Fashion Week, Collina Strada pushed the boundaries of their eco-friendly brand to create pieces that were inspired by fashion and nature as a cohesive group: “one with nature”. Models walked the runway in animal prosthetics matched with the pieces, layering was the name of the game. Whether it was a green mini pleated skirt over a lace shirt with sage green patterned silk sewn together, paired with a reptilian face mask or a tight-fitting white t-shirt spelling out “woof” matched with a dog face and ears, Strada pushed the boundaries to bring ethereal, whimsical pieces to NYFW.
Heron Preston debuted at NYFW this year, growing up in New York and beginning his fashion career in the city made his debut a true homecoming, especially for many of his friends and family who have never seen one of his shows. In the essence of a New York-inspired show, the models walked down a concrete runway with looks featuring an industrial, utilitarian aesthetic. Preston designed his signature streetwear looks with buckles, belts, leather, and chainmail, and opened up the show with “construction workers” wearing neon orange vests spray painting a runway between aisles of chairs. With the idea of a specific community in mind, he wanted to incorporate “New York” into his designs and even used some found objects from the city. As a part of his sustainability-focused brand, much of his outerwear used recycled nylon to bring to life his passion for environmentalism.
Beginning with the darker pieces in their collection, Zoe Latta and Mike Eckhaus know how to craft a show. As lighter pieces in their capsule headed down the runway artful tailoring could be seen in the gradient pallet of the pieces. Prioritizing fluidity in fashion, many pieces were androgynous with the idea that fashion expression is the purest of them all. White Lotus star John Gries made his fashion week debut appearance in baggy white pants and a pastel lime knit sweater with ink blottings across the front. The show was inspired by the quote “Culture shapes the scripts that expressions of distress will follow”, and in that fashion, models wore an array of functional, casual, and formal wear. Utilizing mesh, fur, and many other textures Eckhaus Latta brought the idea of fluidity to life with a real essence for everyday wear.
In true fashion, Dion Lee’s NYFW had rave-goers jumping up and down for the collection. Inspired by alter egos, this collection was meant to be a second skin in shedding your outer layers and getting closer to the self. Models wore black netted shirts under-inflated puffer jackets and reptile skin patterns etched into footwear and accessories alike. Base layers were deconstructed, tattered, and falling off to show the death of one's appearance while finding a more true self. A master at contrasting delicacy with aggression and allure with hostility, this collection was the perfect capsule for Lee. Pieces highlighted the bold underside of the skin someone may not show willingly, and items like the thigh-high reptilian patterned boots, or the tight-fitted fuchsia dress with the pattern of a belly of a snake, were the perfect manifestation of this mantra.
Built from the ground up, LaQuan Smith created a national luxury brand pairing with Bergdorf Goodman and Neiman Marcus. So it was only fitting the show opened with Frida Aasen flinging her LaQuan Smith coat down from the Rainbow Room’s balcony to the sound of Dynasty actress Joan Collins' iconic line: “I now own this house”. Inspired by television like Dynasty, Smith’s collection emulated the vivacity and vibrance of the ’80s. Using warmer rich tones and careful tailoring, Smith brought to life the nostalgia of the 80s with metallic pieces dresses, fur coats, and bedazzled bodysuits. The Menswear featured a cropped men's suit jacket and sheer button-downs while keeping with the theme of luxury, sophistication, and sex appeal.