From Gucci to Blumarine, here are our favorite Milan Fashion Week shows.
The long-awaited return of a creative director’s vision for Gucci has finally arrived at Milan Fashion Week. Sabato De Sarno, a previous employee of Valentino, has made his Gucci debut with his Spring/Summer 2024 collection called “Ancora,” meaning “still.” In a literal sense, the stillness of the collection comes down to its minimalism, which feels like a basic starting point for the new Gucci through De Sarno’s eyes. A blank slate has been created with a collection that has garments that can be built upon, although you wouldn’t think they are Gucci at first glance. Simplistic and timeless, the collection features a variety of basics with a few sparkling standouts, such as tank tops, mini shorts, leather pencil skirts, and rhinestone dresses, tops, and bralettes. Simple overcoats and sweaters offered layering options, the color palette saw pops of cherry red, pink, and navy, and the Gucci logo was implemented occasionally. Casualwear and formalwear were mixed together to create transitional looks accompanied by the Gucci Jackie bag in a variety of colorways and textures.
Versace is back with another Spring/Summer collection with soft and sweet intentions. The emphasis of the collection was on youth, personal confidence, and the energy of city living according to the brand, which could be found in a soft pastel color palette and sleek designs made for formal and fun occasions. Checker print was featured heavily amongst silk dresses, suits, and casual shirt and shorts co-ords adorned with traditional Versace patterns. Double-breasted coats were staples to any matching set, and the theme of tailored clothing was noticeable to help define the shape of the ensembles and stray from too many oversized fits. Pearl and rhinestone embellishments made clothes pop against their plain pastel bases, and what would Versace be without their iconic metal mesh slip dresses?
Tom Ford is perhaps one of the most recognizable labels through its retro-chic designs that never fail to make you say, “That’s Tom Ford.” The label’s Milan Fashion Week Summer 2024 show touched on an era of Tom Ford that was most recognizable to any longtime Tom Ford fan: the 90s and early 2000s era of the label, featuring an array of refined business casual designs that have a subtle hint of sexiness. Of course, the show featured blazers and tailored dress pants, however constructed from shimmering and sensual fabrics like ballet pink, metallic black pinstripe or gold, and emerald green velvet. Micro skirts, shorts, and slip dresses that hung just right created a sense of luxury nostalgia for the brand, and it was impossible to ignore the use of silk, crocodile-printed leather, and quilted fabrics that complimented the earthy and jewel tones of the collection. Oversized tinted sunglasses, leather satchel bags, and gold chain jewelry topped off the retro opulence.
The Attico hosted its first-ever show at Milan Fashion Week, titled “The Morning After,” which, based on the clothes, could be an interpretation of the chaos of dressing after a night out and stepping out onto the street into a new day filled with endless possibilities. The clothes and the women wearing them are just as alive in the morning as they may have been the night before, giving off a sense of a kaleidoscope of personalities. From bright red, pink, and blue fur ensembles to scantily clad see-through dresses, The Attico brought the party to the morning streets of Milan. Colors, textures, and patterns were not afraid to mix but in the most appealing way, while silhouettes and styling remained dramatic and ever so effortless to exude carefree energy. Colored tights were used sparingly, and clutches were the bag of the hour. While some looks aired more on the side of formal drama, casual and cool looks still had a place, such as oversized khaki cargo pants with a rhinestone micro bralette or a stretchy pencil skirt and rhinestone tank top combo, complete with an oversized black leather jacket.
The only trace of Y2K garments was found at Blumarine’s Milan Fashion Week show, taking us back to the girlish, angelic, and feminine symbols and silhouettes of years past. The use of the butterfly was the centric theme of the Spring/Summer 2024 collection, very reminiscent of tween and twenty-something 2000s casualwear, and seen in a variety of different renderings. Gold metallic knee-length pleather dresses donned the butterfly, as did a strapless high-low dress, while dresses themselves were knit to include butterfly patterns, and little was left to the imagination with a butterfly-shaped panty. Angels could be found literally and figuratively, from wings on the backs of models to the sweeping silhouettes of sheer white dresses and overall white ensembles. Accessories were on point with plastic butterfly purses and chunky rhinestone butterfly belts and necklaces.