From Simone Rocha to Edward Crutchley, here are our favorite London Fashion Week shows.
Modern elegance with unique hints of elevation are the themes coming through from the Simone Rocha show presented at London Fashion Week. Titled “The Dress Rehearsal,” Rocha’s show felt as if it was anticipating some type of theatrical performance or wedding ceremony accompanied by the theme of roses spread throughout the garments. Whether they were sheer dresses sculpted from roses and their stems themselves, matching co-ords and dresses with ruffled trim, or satin ensembles with bow motifs, the collection gave a sense of formality and femininity without being too frou-frou. Black, white, silver, ballet pink, and bright red ruled the color palette for a romantic performance. Silhouettes remained classy and wearable for a balance between couture and ready-to-wear.
For David Koma’s London Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2024 show, Koma drew inspiration from the UK’s most prolific late monarch, Queen Elizabeth II, and her passion for florals and all of their vibrancy. Taking the idea of flowers figuratively and literally, Koma constructed garments with silver flower details that shimmered down the runway and garments that looked like flowers, complete with petals. Staple black was used to make brighter colors in the collection pop, like violet, pink, orange, and green. A mixture of textures kept things contemporary from silk, mesh, and leather. Jumpsuits and dresses were the stars of the show, while leather jackets and small clutch handbags added finishing touches.
Although shown in London, Paul Costelloe transported guests at his show to Ferrara, Italy, where his designs' inspiration was drawn from for his Spring/Summer 2024 collection. Looking ahead to the blossoming season of spring, Costelloe focused on themes of romance and florals with preppy undertones that go along with his sports crest and the idea of play in the summertime. Dresses were kept classy and adorned with flower prints, simple stripes, or solid colors. Tailoring played a monumental role in the collection as each silhouette is made to look sleek and polished on the wearer. Sky blue, beige, cream, and navy were the main color palettes of focus, while pops of pink and green were found throughout. Linen fabric was a staple texture against silks and cotton knitwear.
Edward Crutchley was the monochromatic muse of London Fashion Week, with his Summer 2024 collection almost entirely designed in black and white. In a satisfying clash of patterns, Crutchley presented his collection made up of repeating patterns such as harlequin, stripes, a variation of argyle, and other geometric wonders reminiscent of a circus or fun house. Both men’s and women’s garments were shown in casual oversized styles with little tailoring, such as maxi dresses, button-down shirts, straight-leg pants, and sweaters. Form-fitted pieces came in the styles of turtleneck shirts, shorts, and the occasional tank top. Blazers were blown up to go down to the thigh, and dresses had multiple tiers. Some pieces featured superimposed photographs of shirtless models printed on shirts, jackets, and pants. The only pop of color to be found was a sunny shade of yellow shown in latex variation toward the closing of the show.