From Mugler to Marni, here are our favorite Paris Fashion Week shows.
Casey Cadwallader presented the Spring/Summer 2024 collection for Mugler at Paris Fashion Week, and the sensual prowess of the brand was hard to forget, much like collections of the past. And with Paris Hilton walking in the show, the collection has been ingrained in its audience ever since. In typical Mugler fashion, the collection featured the most recognizable signatures of the house, such as corset styles, cut-outs, mesh paneling, and structural, boxy silhouettes. On the other end, skin-tight ensembles hugged the models' figures in all the right ways. In a bid to add extra drama, the collection featured shimmering all-sequin pieces, floor-length fringe jackets, and dresses with air-born trains. Well known for their mostly black color palette, Mugler included a few hints of pastels, bright colors, and metallics in this collection.
Jonathan Anderson has returned with another riveting collection for LOEWE at Paris Fashion Week. As a means to return to simplicity, the collection boasted cozy and refined pieces with signatures characteristic of Anderson's vision. Incredibly wearable garments once again graced the runway, such as oversized chunky knitwear, large blazers, leather and suede coats, and sharp button-downs. Creative and artistic flare was shown in pencil skirts fastened with giant metallic needles, and extremely high-waisted pants were shown once again, reminiscent of the LOEWE men's Spring 2024 show. Earth tones reigned supreme; however, there was space for bright pops of color from violet and blue to that one big pop of red LOEWE never forgets.
Paco Rabanne presented their Spring/Summer 2024 collection at Paris Fashion Week, titled “Origins of the Future.” Designed by Julien Dossena, the collection dove into futurism as if it were predicted centuries ago, and what people would wear as if living in dystopian luxury. Craftsmanship was a large part of this collection, focusing on sculptural hardware such as liquid metal mesh garments, chain-link dresses, and accessories. Designed in gradient desert tones according to the brand, silhouettes included hooded sleeveless dresses and jumpsuits, draped two-piece ensembles, and metallic co-ords. Details came down to lots of beaded fringes, embellishments, and belts of various metallic styles. Differing textures went up against the noticeable hardware theme, such as silk, knit, and sequins. Gladiator sandals topped the gilded motifs, and handbags matched their hardware garment counterparts.
Wearable art is something that Schiaparelli always embodies with every collection. Their Spring/Summer 2024 collection presented at Paris Fashion Week was no different from this embodiment, touching on Elsa Schiaparelli’s love for surrealism and how it translates to clothing, especially clothing that is wearable. Daniel Roseberry decided to focus on a few motifs that were relevant to the house years ago and are still relevant now, such as anatomical and bodily themes, as shown in a top adorned with a ribcage embellishment, accessories with eyes, and breasts sewn atop a dress. Another major theme of the show came down to the lobster, which Elsa Schiaparelli had once famously designed into a dress, shown in gold necklaces, and built into the clothes themselves, such as a white maxi skirt. Elsewhere, the show touches on chaotic art made from objects of the designer’s affection, such as a dress affixed with gold chains, cigarettes, a zippo lighter, and a red nail polish bottle spilled out to spell “Schiaparelli” down the front. The same theme can be found in oversized, pinstripe, or plain black suiting.
From the mind of Harris Reed comes a playful and imaginative collection for Nina Ricci. The Spring/Summer 2024 collection presented at Paris Fashion Week was decidedly inspired by the Nina Ricci archives but also the childhood experience of going through Reed’s mother’s decadent collection of clothes and playing dress-up. The joy of such a memory translated flawlessly into lighthearted designs for many occasions, from parties to the office. Simple garments and ensembles were jazzed up with fun details like grandiose bows, loud prints, soft pastels, and metallics, and black-and-white shook things up even further. Silhouettes ranged from suits and matching sets to a large variety of different dresses, all unique and loud in their own way. Textures like fishnet, velvet, feathers, and tulle added a hint of youthfulness to encapsulate the theme.
Francesco Risso presented Marni's Spring/Summer 2024 collection during Paris Fashion Week at Karl Lagerfeld's previous private residence. Set against the opulence of the home, the collection itself screamed daring gestures of fun and the calculated clash of patterns. The range of styles stretched from casual to over-dressed, from sheer mini dresses to trench coats and blazers. Whimsical patterns, focused on variations of stripes and plaid, were the epicenter of the collection, integrated into boxy silhouetted garments and skin-tight designs. Classic Marni textures such as mohair, shown in sweaters, made their usual appearances, and 3-D cartoon-like floral dresses added the element of surprise. The color palette posed earth tones with yellow, blue, and pink pops.